The British in India were always looking for places where they could escape the hear and germs of the plains, for “salubrious air devioid of malarial vapours, lofty enough to escape the scourge of typhus and other parasites”. The number of children’s graves in colonial cemeteries bears, witness to the gravity of thus problem. In South India, with summer temperatures soaring to 45°C, escape plans began in March. The punkahwallas only churned up warm land breezes, gardens began to wilt, children became irritable.
If you happened to be “in tea” you were lucky, living year round in a climate somewhat like England in spring and summer. But what about the civil servant in trichy, the trader in madras or the army colonel in madurai? Elaborate arrangements had to be made for the women and children, often with a battery of servants, to flee to the hills. Master would follow as and when his work allowed, often with horse and syce in tow.
Americans in Kodaikanal
But it wasn’t the British civil servant as much as the American missionary who laid the foundations of modern Kodai. By the earl 1800s several Americans missions were functioning in India and one of these was the American Madura Mission. There had been many deaths among its staff and it was decided that the need of the hour was a recuperation centre in the hills. By then, Lieutenant Ward had surveyed the Palnis, making his headquarters at Vellagavi. His report of beautiful hills, wonderful climate and accessibility from Periakulam encouraged a slow byt steady trickle of settlers, Coffee had been planted in the lower parts of the hills. In 1845 the American missionaries moved in, building two bungalows on th southern dege of the plateau which is Kodaikanal. They are Sunnyside and Shelton, which still stand; the latter is occupied by an American family with a long connection with American missions in India.
The American Madura Mission was pleased. Kodai was an excellent spot for the “restoration of health”. There were bitter opponents to this rival of established hill stations such as Ooty. And perhaps a touch of chagrin about Americans invading the hill domains of the British. “The settlement of Kodaikanal consists of a dozen or more small and ugly houses. The situation is not well chosen in respect of beauty and scenery”. But later there was a change of heart. “ the houses are picturesquely grouped about a natural theatre of hills.” Before the turn of the century, rich Indians were buying property. Kodai was becoming hill station.
